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Every man needs at least one good white dress shirt. Fine Italian-woven cotton, old-school American craftsmanship, and a great trim fit make the Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece shirt a must-have for the modern gentleman. Its versatile spread collar looks great with or without a tie, so you can pair this timeless staple with almost any outfit.
There are few menswear staples that are as timeless and essential as a crisp white dress shirt. Men have been reaching for white dress shirts for as long as they’ve been wearing suits, although the clean, classic look of this garment works with just about any outfit, making it one of the best and most versatile pieces of clothing a guy can have in his wardrobe.
There’s a good chance you’re already fairly familiar with dress shirts, and you probably already have a few. There’s also a good chance, however, that there’s a lot more to a quality dress shirt than you’re aware of. Here’s a quick run-down of things to look for in your next dress shirt:
Choosing the right fabric is key
Cotton is the standard material used for dress shirting, but it’s not all made the same way. Natural shirt fabrics are generally classified according to the weave:
- Poplin (or broadcloth) is a soft weave that is light, breathable, and wrinkle-resistant.
- Oxford is a medium-bodied basket-woven cotton with a slightly rough texture.
- Twill has a tight diagonal weave that results in a thick, substantial cloth.
- Pinpoint is similar to Oxford but woven with thinner threads for a smoother hand.
- End-on-end features contrasting warp and weft threads that create a heathered look.
Synthetic materials like polyester permeate the field of men’s dress shirts today owing to their low cost, but these fabrics simply do not look, feel, or breathe as well as quality cotton, so keep it natural. You might see some shirtmakers use terms like “yarn number” (referring to the thickness of the yarn) or “ply” (meaning the number of threads comprising the yarn, e.g. “two-ply”). These aren’t necessarily indicators of quality so don’t sweat about them too much.
The fit should be trim and tailored
Dress shirts should be fairly trim. The important thing here is to avoid the big, baggy, blousy over-sized shirts many men are wearing. Also important is collar fit. There should be no visible gap between the collar and your neck, but you want to be able to comfortably insert two fingers inside the collar. If you can’t, it’s too tight.
A proper dress shirt’s size will be labeled by two numbers which indicate collar size and sleeve length – dress shirts shouldn’t be labeled with generic garment sizes like “medium.” A 15/34 shirt, for example, has a 15-inch collar circumference and a 34-inch sleeve length measured from the back of the neck down to the cuff. To suss out your ideal size, use a flexible tape measure to measure your body or find a shirt you already have that fits perfectly and measure that. And find a good tailor.
Cuff and collar construction matter
Dress shirt styles mostly boil down to the collar and cuffs. Cuffs typically come in two flavors: Barrel cuffs, which feature a button closure, and French cuffs, which are folded back on themselves and held closed with cufflinks. Collars are a bit more varied and are classified by the cut with spread, cutaway, point, tab, club, and button-down being the most common. Your collar choice depends on the ties you want to wear with your shirt and whether or not you plan to wear the dress shirt without a necktie.
SEE ALSO: The best ties you can buy to look dapper in your new suit
The best white dress shirt overall
Why you'll love it: If you’re only going to get one white dress shirt, then this luxurious, stylish, and versatile Brooks Brothers’ Golden Fleece Shirt is the one you want.
It doesn’t get much more versatile than the classic spread collar for your go-to dress shirt. This style works with most neckties and knots, although a spread collar is especially well-suited for the wider Windsor and mid-sized half-Winsdor. If you only plan to have one white dress shirt in your rotation, then the versatility of the spread collar makes it a tough act to beat.
However, a spread collar is also a fine choice for going tieless, whether you’re pairing your white dress shirt with a light-colored summer suit – a perfect excuse to ditch the neckwear altogether – or wearing it with a crisp pair of chinos or jeans for a casual evening out. As one of the oldest and most respected menswear brands in the world, it’s only fitting that our top pick for a white dress shirt comes from Brooks Brothers.
This dress shirt is part of the Golden Fleece Collection, one of Brooks Brothers’ high-end lines. The cotton is woven in Italy in a durable twill that gives the shirt a thick body and a nice smooth hand.
The spread collar lends the shirt a classic English-style flair and works with just about any tie, while the double-button barrel cuffs with rounded edges offer a classic American look. The "Regent" fit is suitably slim and modern without being too fashion-forward or constricting.
Sadly, many of the garment factories in the United States and Europe have shut down, and most shirtmakers – Brooks Brothers included – now manufacture most of their stuff overseas. Golden Fleece shirts, however, are cut and stitched right in Brooks Brothers’ shirtmaking facility in Garland, North Carolina, so you’re getting old-school American craftsmanship from the old-school American menswear label.
That, in my opinion, puts this shirt above the rest and makes it more than worth the money considering it’ll be your go-to white dress shirt for decades with proper care. If you’re a “buy once, cry once” kinda guy, and you only need one solid white dress shirt in your rotation, then the Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece spread-collar is the one for you.
Pros: Fine American craftsmanship, a slim but not constricting fit, sturdy Italian-woven twill, and a classic spread collar that works with most ties and outfits
Cons: It’s fairly expensive
The best lightweight summer shirt
Why you'll love it: This crisp white dress shirt from T. M. Lewin uses a cotton and linen blend that's just what the tailor ordered when you want to look sharp and beat the heat.
Almost all quality dress shirts are made from 100% cotton, but as men are wearing suits more, cotton/linen blends have become a popular choice of shirting material for those hot summer months. Cotton by itself is not the most breathable cloth, and while linen is very light and airy, it wrinkles about as easily as wrapping paper. A nice blended fabric, on the other hand, combines the body of cotton with the coolness of linen, presenting a near-perfect hot-weather alternative to all-cotton garments.
Founded in 1898, T. M. Lewin is a famous English shirtmaker hailing from Jermyn Street in London, the capital of traditional menswear (sorry, Italy). With more than a century of experience, you can expect that T. M. Lewin knows a thing or two about shirting, and this crisp white cotton and linen number is the one you want to reach for when the sun comes out and it’s time to retire the twill.
M. Lewin delivers, in our opinion, a lot of value when it comes to traditional shirtmaking. And while this Jermyn Street brand may be old-school, it’s kept up with the times, offering clean-looking slim cuts that outclass the blousy, billowy shirts of past decades. The 71% cotton/29% linen fabric breathes and moves nicely. It will get more wrinkly than plain cotton, but as a well-dressed man, you surely already know your way around an iron.
The classic point collar hits the sweet spot between size and spread, allowing it to work well with most ties and tie knots. I recommend sticking with a four-in-hand or half-Windsor for this one, especially considering you’re probably not going to be wearing thick, chunky neckties in the summer heat. However, point collars like this are also great for going tieless, and the subtle light blue styling on the inside of the collar and placket looks great with a button or two undone.
This light blue accent is also present on the button threads and the lining inside the single-button cuffs, while the second forearm button lets you roll up those sleeves if you want to go for a super-casual look. Go ahead and roll ‘em. In hot weather, you want to look as good as you feel, and the T. M. Lewin cotton/linen dress shirt is just the ticket. The cut corners on the shirt’s mitered cuff do lend the shirt a bit of extra formality, however, so it pairs just as beautifully with any light-colored spring or summer suit.
Pros: Cool yet crisp cotton/linen blend fabric, a flattering slim fit, and a classic point collar that works with or without a tie
Cons: The cotton/linen fabric is more prone to wrinkling than 100 percent cotton
The best French cuff dress shirt
Why you'll love it: Every man should have at least one French cuff dress shirt in his closet, and this slim-fit twill spread-collar from Charles Tyrwhitt is an excellent choice.
For your first white dress shirt, it’s probably best to stick with more versatile button cuffs. Nonetheless, it behooves the well-dressed man to have at least one or two French cuff shirts in his rotation, and since you’re likely to have a few white dress shirts, a high-quality double-cuffed example should be among them.
The French cuff, also called the double cuff, is cut longer than a standard barrel cuff so that it may fold back over itself. In lieu of buttons, the cuff is held together at the wrist via cufflinks. This results in a larger, more substantial cuff and a very sharp and old-school look.
Charles Tyrwhitt, like T. M. Lewin, is another famous Jermyn Street brand and one of our favorite shirtmakers. It’s not as old as some other English menswear labels but has nonetheless built a strong name for itself with its excellent (not to mention high-value) shirting options. This spread collar twill dress shirt is our pick for your first pair of French cuffs given its excellent price-to-quality ratio, especially if you’re not yet sure this style is for you and aren’t ready to drop a Benjamin or two.
French cuff shirts are generally more formal than barrel cuffs and you’re not likely to be wearing one without a jacket or suit and a tie. Studier, thicker fabrics work best for double cuffs, which explains our choice of Charles Tyrwhitt’s substantial-yet-soft twill weave for this one. A traditional shirt like this calls for a spread collar, too, as the conservative cuff style pairs best with a medium-to-wide necktie and a half-Windsor or Windsor knot.
Keep your outfit conservative with this shirt – overly colorful socks, ties, or pocket squares, as well as too many other accessories like jewelry or large watches, will leave your ensemble looking costumey and garish with French cuffs and cufflinks. “Simple and sophisticated” is the rule here: Rock the Charles Tyrwhitt double cuff shirt with a dark suit, a striped repp or solid-colored tie, and a nice pair of sleek cufflinks for a stylish yet no-nonsense business ensemble.
Pros: A substantial yet soft cotton twill, a classic and versatile spread collar, it comes with a pair of brass collar stays, and it’s an excellent value
Cons: The corporate look of French cuffs limits the possibilities of wearing this shirt without a suit or jacket
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