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- AHA and BHA are acids that exfoliate the skin.
- AHA is best for dry skin and surface-level skin concerns like acne scars. BHAs are best for oily and acne-prone skin types.
- You can use both by buying products with both ingredients, or by alternating products.
- Below are 10 AHA/BHA products worth checking out, and where you can find them.
Exfoliation is an essential part of a good skincare routine. It helps to slough off dead skin and facilitate new cell turnover, keep pores clean (and skin clear), and promote blood flow and collagen production. It also makes your skin look younger, healthier, and helps produce the much-desired glow.
One type of exfoliation that’s gaining traction is acids — specifically AHA and BHA — thanks in part to mainstream brands such as Drunk Elephant, Dr. Dennis Gross, and Peter Thomas Roth. Drunk Elephant has cult-favorites like the T.L.C. Sukari Babyfacial and T.L.C Framboos Glycolic Night Serum, Dr. Dennis Gross has Alpha Beta Daily Peels, and Peter Thomas Roth has AHA/BHA Clearing Gel. These acids can combat acne, erase dark spots, and blur fine lines.
So what are AHAs and BHAs, what do they do, and who should be using them?
Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) represents acids derived from a natural substance like sugar cane, milk, almonds, or grapes. They work by breaking down the glue holding your skin cells together, urging along the skin’s natural shedding process. BHAs penetrate deeper into the skin, but the effects of AHAs are primarily felt on the skin’s surface. If you have surface-level skin concerns like red marks from past acne, this constant sloughing off of dead, dull skin cells is helpful for hyperpigmentation.
AHA is also good for dry skin. It’s made up of molecules that love water, and it helps improve the skin’s moisture content.
Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) is best for acne-prone skin and those with deeper skin concerns since BHA penetrates further into the skin. While AHAs love water, BHAs love oil. They can bypass the oil that clogs pores and dissolve the mix of sebum and dead skin that leads to acne, as well as stabilize the lining of the pore (which contributes to acne). BHAs clear up blackheads, whiteheads, and have anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. This umbrella term includes the popular anti-acne ingredient of Salicylic Acid. BHAs also exfoliate the top layer but are best bought for their deep penetrative qualities.
Can’t decide between addressing hyperpigmentation and dry skin or your acne? Use both AHAs and BHAs. It’s the acidic one-two punch of treating dark spots, sun damage, and fine lines as well as acne and deep, clogged pores. Shop products that contain both ingredients, or alternate between your AHA product and your BHA product nightly or weekly.
It’s important to use sunscreen after exfoliating since your skin will be photosensitive, and to pay attention to how your skin is reacting. It’s always a good idea to run products by your dermatologist, and that's especially true if you have sensitive skin and want to double check which strength of each acid is best for you.
Below are 11 products that use AHAs, BHAs, or a combination of the two and where you can find them:
AHA: AHA 7 Whitehead Power Liquid
COSRX, the skincare brand best-known for the Pimple Master Patch (though we suggest trying Mighty Patch), also has an AHA liquid formulated to resurface the skin and renew the complexion while reducing those surface-level whiteheads we're all too familiar with.
This serum contains 7% glycolic acid and fruit water to gently exfoliate the skin, prevent breakouts, and brighten skin tone. The company recommends using COSRX chemical exfoliators with cotton pads for the best results.
AHA: Botanical Body Soap
Mario Badescu, arguably best known for its Drying Lotion (another go-to acne weapon for us), also makes an AHA-filled body soap.
Papaya and grapefruit extracts break down dead skin cells to be replaced with newly smooth and soft skin. Ginseng extract rejuvenates, and oat protein soothes sensitive or irritated areas.
If you're looking for a way to regularly combat body acne and thoroughly clean the buildup on your skin, this is a great option to add to your shower lineup.
BHA: Medicated Acne Pads
Stri-Dex Medicated Pads, Maximum Strength, 90-Count Containers, available on Walmart and Amazon, $4
An old-school favorite and drugstore hero, Stri-Dex Medicated Pads are an inexpensive way to get your dose of BHA in the form of Salicylic Acid.
These work best for targeting existing pimples and blackheads, and they're strong; Stri-Dex pads contain the highest level of Salicylic Acid you can get without a prescription (2%). Formulas are entirely alcohol-free, however, so the cleansing process forgoes the characteristic burn of alcohol.
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